Rediscovering Borakalalo: A Jewel of Biodiversity and Incredible Beauty!
- Jason van den Berg
- Nov 18
- 17 min read
Updated: Nov 19
By Jason van den Berg
Borakalalo Game Reserve; a place of breathtaking beauty, rich biodiversity, and deep human history, is nestled in the North West Province near the town of Brits.
My connection to Borakalalo runs deep. As a child, I often tagged along with my father and his friends whenever they visited for a weekend's relaxation. Fishing never really caught my interest. What truly captivated me was the bushveld: the freedom of the wild, the rich scents, the chorus of birds, and the endless mysteries waiting to be discovered. Luckily, I'd always have a friend or two to explore with, and whenever there was a chance, we’d slip away into the wilderness, eager to discover and explore.
Back in the early 2000s, and when I used to first visit, Borakalalo was still a haven for a relatively large herd of White Rhinoceros (Ceratotherium simum). But by 2010, a dark chapter in Borakalalo’s history had begun, as the park started to suffer devastating blows.
That year, a white rhino was poached, its horn brutally removed. News reports at the time painted a grim picture: nationwide, over 200 rhinos were killed by poachers in 2010 alone, up from 122 the previous year, a trend that would continue to rise. Borakalalo was not spared, including a tragic event in 2012 when multiple white rhinos were poached in a single incident. This ultimately led to the heartbreaking decision to relocate the remaining rhino population to other, better protected reserves. That moment marked a turning point. What had once felt like a safe haven was now under threat.
After those years, I hadn’t visited Borakalalo for quite some time. Life and other commitments took me elsewhere. But in 2022, a friend invited me to join them on a brief visit, and I gladly accepted. The moment I stepped back into the park, I instantly fell in love all over again. Since those early days, my tracking skills had improved significantly, and this time I was able to truly appreciate the incredible array of mammal biodiversity around me. Every spoor, every sign told a story. Evidence of the rich, thriving life that still calls Borakalalo home. It was a powerful reminder that despite past hardships, the park remained a vital refuge for wildlife and a place of endless discovery. I’ve been returning ever since, whenever the opportunity arises.
A Storied History: Rooted in Culture, Conservation and Challenges
Nestled in the North West Province of South Africa, just 60 kilometers north of Brits, Borakalalo Game Reserve, whose name in Setswana translates to "the place where people relax", holds a profound legacy intertwined with the rhythms of human life and the wild.
Long before its formal designation as a protected area, these lands along the Moretele River and around the now expansive Klipvoor Dam were vital to the indigenous Tswana communities of the region. Oral histories and cultural narratives speak of Batswana elders, dating back to at least the 14th century, who revered the area's woodlands and waterways as sacred spaces for spiritual practices, timekeeping, and weather prediction. Here, under the canopy of acacia trees, communities gathered for rituals, fished the river's bounty, and grazed livestock in harmony with the bushveld's cycles.
This deep-rooted human presence underscores Borakalalo's identity not as an isolated wilderness, but as a living tapestry where people and nature have coexisted for generations, fostering a sense of stewardship passed down through stories around evening fires.
Borakalalo's conservation journey began during the era of Bophuthatswana, the apartheid-era Tswana homeland established in 1977. In the late 1970s, it was proclaimed as a National Park (of Bophuthatswana), aiming to safeguard its unique biodiversity amid growing pressures from development and resource extraction. The reserve became a beacon for wildlife management in the province. The 1980s and 1990s marked a golden age: white rhinos roamed freely, their silhouettes a testament to successful translocation efforts. Giraffes, zebras, sable antelope, and many other species thrived alongside the hippos in the dam, drawing eco-tourists and anglers alike to its serene picnic spots, scenic roads, and winding hiking trails. Borakalalo wasn't just a park; it was a paradise for both wildlife and people.
Yet, the dawn of the new millennium cast long shadows over this idyll. The early 2000s unleashed a scourge of rampant poaching, fueled by international demand for rhino horn, culminating in devastating losses, and leaving the reserve a haunting emblem of a global conservation crisis.
Encroachments by nearby settlements, chronic underfunding, and crumbling infrastructure compounded the woes. Wire snares proliferated, and the once-vibrant ecosystem began teetering. Amid these challenges, public support and visitor numbers waned, and in many ways Borakalalo was left behind and forgotten.
But Borakalalo's story is one woven with threads of hope and collaboration. With renewed and sustained public enthusiasm and governmental and private entity backing, this sanctuary can once again flourish, not just for the rhinos that may one day return, but for the surrounding communities whose stories are etched into every thorn tree and sun-dappled path. It's a call to all of us: to visit, to support, and to relax into the quiet power of shared guardianship.
A Park of Natural Wonders: A Hidden Gem of Ecological Diversity
Borakalalo Nature Reserve spans roughly 13,000 hectares, nourished by the Moretele River and its tributaries. Set within a rare ecological transition zone that blends Kalahari influences with Eastern Bushveld elements, Borakalalo’s landscapes shift from rolling woodlands and open grassveld to rugged mountain slopes and lush riverine forest.
Within these habitats stand iconic protected trees such as Camel Thorn (Vachellia erioloba), towering Leadwood (Combretum imberbe), and the hardy Shepherd Tree (Boscia albitrunca), each forming the backbone of an ecosystem rich in life.
Borakalalo is far more than just a game reserve. It is a sanctuary for an extraordinary array of biodiversity. Over 50 species of mammals occur here, ranging from African Buffalo (Syncerus caffer), Giraffe (Giraffa giraffa), Zebra (Equus quagga), Kudu (Tragelaphus strepsiceros), and Impala (Aepyceros melampus), to the elusive predators that roam its shadows: Leopard (Panthera pardus) and Brown Hyena (Parahyaena brunnea). Even elusive species such as the Aardwolf (Proteles cristatus) and Serval (Leptailurus serval) have been regularly recorded, and the endangered White-tailed Rat (Mystromys albicaudatus) finds refuge within the reserve.
Reptiles such as black mamba (Dendroaspis polylepis), Southern African rock python (Python natalensis), Nile monitor (Varanus niloticus), as well as a variety of frog species flourish along the dam and riverine edges.
Among Borakalalo’s most intriguing residents is Eusparassus borakalalo, a species of huntsman spider described in 2013 by Majid Moradmand and, based on current scientific records, known only from this reserve. The holotype is preserved in the National Collection of Arachnida in Pretoria, a fitting emblem of the park’s often-overlooked scientific importance: here, even the smallest life forms hold stories found nowhere else.
Birdlife is one of Borakalalo’s greatest treasures. With more than 350 species recorded, the reserve is a premier birding destination in North West Province. Along the Moretele River one might encounter the secretive African Finfoot (Podica senegalensis) or Meyer’s Parrot (Poicephalus meyeri), while raptors like the African Fish Eagle (Haliaeetus vocifer) call across the waters daily. Open zones near Klipvoor Dam attract waterbirds such as Goliath Herons (Ardea goliath) and, during low-water periods, even Greater Flamingos (Phoenicopterus roseus). Summer migrants such as ruff, and common sandpipers, among others, add seasonal excitement for birders. From woodland specialists to wetland rarities, the skies here are alive with colour and sound.
The park’s fauna tells a story of resilience, and while rhinos may no longer roam here, herbivore populations remain robust and predators persist. Challenges such as poaching still occur, but nonetheless, Borakalalo remains a hidden gem of ecological diversity, offering a rare glimpse into the interconnected systems that sustain the region’s natural heritage.
The Moretele River and Klipvoor Dam: Lifelines of Borakalalo
The Moretele River is a vital artery winding through Borakalalo. It begins where the Apies and Pienaars rivers meet, flowing westward through the park’s ecologically rich terrain and feeding one of its key features: the Klipvoor Dam. Built in 1970, the dam was designed to support irrigation in the region and now holds around 47 000 cubic meters of water.
Beyond agriculture, Klipvoor Dam plays a crucial role in supporting ecosystems and recreation. It provides habitat for fish species such as common carp (Cyprinus carpio), sharptooth catfish (Clarias gariepinus), and the African longfin eel (Anguilla mossambica), and attracts a wealth of birdlife due to its wetlands and riparian zones. These waters are critical to sustaining the park’s diverse species, and the interconnectedness of these rivers and dam systems highlights the delicate balance between water management and conservation. Their protection is essential for Borakalalo’s future survival. Borakalalo’s biggest challenges aren’t always the most visible. The rivers that feed the reserve, particularly the Apies and Pienaars, are in trouble...
Various views of the Klipvoor Dam and Moretele River.
These rivers, which feed into Klipvoor Dam, have long been under pressure from urban neglect, nutrient pollution, and failing waste management systems. Aging and non-functioning wastewater treatment plants, including Rooiwal, discharge inadequately treated (or raw) effluent into the rivers, resulting in eutrophication, toxic algal blooms (e.g., Microcystis), and fish die-offs.
A 2021 Human Rights Commission inquiry confirmed repeated sewage spills, highlighting not only environmental damage but also health risks for downstream communities. Studies have shown that local communities value Borakalalo for its role in maintaining water quality, noting that the wetlands, riverine forests, and catchment areas within the reserve help filter pollutants, stabilize soils, and keep the Moretele River system healthy.
Though the water may appear calm, it carries the cumulative weight of these impacts, reducing oxygen levels, killing aquatic life, degrading wetlands, and threatening the integrity of the Moretele River ecosystem that sustains Borakalalo’s biodiversity. These aren’t just ecological problems. They’re signs that the system is out of balance. Unless we act, the damage may soon go too deep to reverse. Without meaningful upstream intervention, both wildlife and local communities remain at serious risk.
A Major Threat Beyond Snare Poaching: Gillnets
Beyond snares posing a threat in the bush, there’s the silent killer in the dam: gillnets. These fine-mesh nets, set illegally to catch fish, trap anything that swims into them. Gillnets deplete fish stocks rapidly and directly threaten non-target species like otters, terrapins, water-birds, and even crocodiles, whose numbers are dwindling. These reptiles often become entangled and drown, ingest nets while attempting to eat trapped fish, and suffer from reduced prey availability due to declining fish populations.
Lost or abandoned nets, commonly referred to as “ghost nets”, continue to entangle wildlife long after being discarded, causing injury, starvation, and death. Cheap, easily accessible gillnets, largely driven by more accessible international trade, including imports from China, are fueling the problem. In some areas, nets hundreds of meters long are removed one day, only to be replaced the next. Borakalalo’s rangers are constantly patrolling the waters to combat this threat, while organizations like Eco-Care Trust are raising awareness and helping tackle this devastating form of illegal fishing.
Conservation & Communities: People Are At The Heart of Conservation
Borakalalo doesn’t exist in isolation. It is surrounded by rural communities who interact with the park every day. A study revealed that while many residents support conservation, they often feel excluded from the park and see few direct benefits. Understandably, when a family is struggling to make ends meet, conservation can feel like a distant priority, especially if it’s perceived as protecting animals instead of helping people.
Under such conditions, issues like poaching and crime will continue to surface. But research consistently shows that when communities are genuinely included; given jobs, educational opportunities, and shared ownership, attitudes shift. People become custodians of wildlife rather than bystanders or offenders.
For Borakalalo to succeed in protecting its rich biodiversity, it must deliver real value to the communities that, through five CPAs, own 80% of the reserve. Although these communities have a vested interest in the park, the limited tourism activity means they currently receive very little direct benefit. From their perspective, it could easily make sense that there is little incentive to conserve an area that offers no tangible returns; and thus using its natural resources becomes the more rational choice.
Importantly, it should also be noted, that a study by Ian Gordon Cumming in 2020, found that while financial benefits are certainly needed in an area with few economic opportunities, the surrounding communities valued the park for its heritage. Their desire to conserve Borakalalo is driven not only by potential income, but also by a genuine commitment to preserving a place of cultural and historical significance.
Borakalalo has the potential to become a model for people-centered conservation. Achieving this, however, will require restoring trust, securing community support, creating real opportunities, and ensuring that the benefits of the park reach those living closest to it.
Camps and Accommodation: A Glimpse Into What Was, and What Remains
Being within easy reach of Pretoria and Johannesburg, Borakalalo holds significant untapped tourism potential. Borakalalo once offered several charming accommodation options that gave visitors an immersive wilderness experience. Tragically, the two flagship camps were completely destroyed by fire years ago and have never been rebuilt, leaving a noticeable void in the reserve’s tourism offering.
Pitjane Fishing Camp on the banks of Klipvoor Dam is operational, offering shaded camping spaces, but is very basic and amenities are in urgent need of attention and upgrades. Still, it remains a place where you can experience moments of true wild magic. Bring your own tent, a sense of adventure, and leave no trace. The sunsets are beautiful, and hippos can sometimes be heard across the water.
Moretele River Camp, once offering permanent tents along the riverbank, unfortunately lies in ruins, and is now being reclaimed by the bush, a poignant reminder of its lost potential. With prior arrangement through the reserve office, the Moretele site can be opened for exclusive-use, bring-your-own-everything camping. There are no facilities whatsoever; no water, no toilets, no power, no staff on site. You must be fully self-sufficient and follow strict leave-no-trace principles. This option is best suited to experienced overlanders or small wild-at-heart private groups looking for a raw bush experience next to the river. Permission is granted on a case-by-case basis and is not widely advertised.
Phudufudu Camp, formerly a luxury tented camp hidden in beautiful natural woodland, had ten safari tents on raised platforms, a swimming pool, dining area, and small conference space. With a bit of imagination, some investment, love, and care, this camp can once again become a tranquil haven for travelers looking to explore the beauty Borakalalo has to offer.
Phudufudu Camp, formerly a luxury tented camp hidden in natural woodland, had ten safari tents, a pool, dining area, and small conference space. It has not been rebuilt since burning down.
The loss of infrastructure is real, but so is the potential. With the right interest, investment, strong partnerships, and genuine community involvement, Borakalalo could once again offer accommodation worthy of its spectacular natural setting, and become a place that truly reflects its ecological and cultural value.
Ga-Dinonyane: The Place of Birds
The Ga-Dinonyane Bird Hide is a subtle but rewarding spot tucked away in the northwest corner of Borakalalo Game Reserve. Ga-Dinonyane means "Place of Birds", and the name does not disappoint. If you're a birder chasing those elusive summer migrants or just want a quiet perch to watch the bush come alive and hear the fish eagles call, this is one of the reserve's understated stars.
Looking Ahead: A Future Worth Fighting For
The truth is, without meaningful support, conditions at Borakalalo may continue to decline. Camps have burned. Infrastructure has faded. Poaching still threatens wildlife. But it’s not too late.
Addressing these threats requires a coordinated, long-term approach. Upstream sewage treatment must be improved to reduce pollution and prevent algal blooms. Illegal snares and gillnets must be actively enforced and removed, as they continue to trap wildlife long after being set or discarded. Sustainable, low-impact tourism can offer alternative livelihoods while supporting local communities. Mining near Borakalalo must be tightly regulated with strict environmental oversight to prevent further habitat and water damage. Above all, meaningful engagement with local communities is essential; fostering stewardship and shared responsibility for the reserve’s long-term health.
For those who’ve walked its trails or listened to the call of a Fish Eagle over the dam, it’s clear: Borakalalo still matters!
But it will need support and partnerships in order to move forward. Imperative will be:
Visitors and supporters who continue to visit the reserve and champion its value.
Conservation organizations and experts who can assist with planning, implementation, restoration, and long-term ecological management.
Private partners capable of helping to rebuild, operate, and maintain camps, trails, and tourism facilities.
Mining companies and regional businesses that can invest in the reserve as part of their environmental responsibilities and community commitments.
Local communities, who must be central to the process, benefiting through jobs, skills development, education, awareness, and genuine inclusion in decision-making.
There is also tremendous potential to grow low-cost, low-impact eco-tourism in Borakalalo, opportunities that celebrate the reserve’s wilderness character while directly benefiting the reserve and surrounding communities. These could include:
Guided game drives and bush walks for the wildlife enthusiast.
Overnight wilderness trails that immerse visitors in the landscape.
Adventure and nature-based activities, from mountain biking to wilderness challenges.
Community-run eco-tourism ventures, such as a low-impact wilderness campsite or cultural hosting.
Citizen science and voluntourism programs that allow visitors to contribute directly to conservation efforts.
Youth education and environmental learning camps that build the next generation of conservation stewards.
Photography and birding weekends, attracting enthusiasts seeking quiet, nature-focused experiences.
Conservation and environmental skills workshops, using Borakalalo as a living outdoor classroom.
Cultural heritage experiences, including guided storytelling, traditional crafts, and local food prepared by community members.
Fishing-for-conservation events (carefully regulated), linking recreation with conservation.
Stargazing evenings, perfect for astronomy clubs, photographers, and families.
Niche Safaris for those looking for particular species such as African Finfoot, or perhaps even Springhare.
These activities could create meaningful jobs, deepen environmental awareness, and build a stronger sense of connection between people and the reserve, while generating income and restoring local pride. Public support will ensure Borakalalo remains a haven of biodiversity, relaxation, and renewal for generations.
The Dream: An Extraordinary Opportunity for Expansion
Imagine Borakalalo expanded into a 160,000+ hectare conservation landscape.
Ambitious? Yes. Achievable? Perhaps... With collaboration, determination, and patience.
Such an expansion could protect water catchments, connect wildlife corridors, safeguard biodiversity, and create regional employment. Critically, it could support African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus), offering the contiguous habitat they need to thrive. A free-roaming pack already moves through this greater area, hinting at the potential.
This is not official policy, merely a vision. Achieving it starts small: rebuilding a trail, removing a snare, hosting a school group. Each action lays the foundation for a future where Borakalalo isn’t just preserved, it’s championed. It’s daring. It’s hopeful. And it’s worth dreaming.
How You Can Help
Visit and Experience Borakalalo – Tourism directly supports conservation. Your visits help the reserve thrive.
Spread a Positive Word – Share Borakalalo’s beauty, biodiversity, and challenges. Inspire others, especially those who can make a difference.
Support Borakalalo Initiatives – Engage with projects linked to the park, such as the NWP & TB Honorary Officer Association and Friends of Borakalalo Nature Reserve.
Advocate for Conservation – Raise awareness about Borakalalo’s ecological and cultural value. Encourage and support responsible practices and community involvement.
Visitor Experience / Practical Info
Borakalalo offers a hands-on, authentic bush experience for those seeking nature over luxury. Its rustic charm, wilderness feel, and patchy cell reception make it ideal for truly unwinding and for those wild at heart.
Day visitors can explore self-drive loops (many require a 4x4 and may be overgrown), stopping at hides for birdwatching, or have a picnic along the way. Fishing is still popular, with carp, bream, and catfish common. Designated hiking trails allow for unguided exploration of parts of the reserve, and the walk up Pitjane Hill to the lookout offers truly spectacular views. Many trails were abandoned and left to deteriorate, but have since been improved by management and community work-party efforts.
Top Left: Male leopard tracks leading down an overgrown trail. Top Right: The warnings should definitely be heeded. Although Borakalalo allows for somewhat relaxed exploration, the dangers of wildlife should never be underestimated.
Visitors should note that dangerous game is present: hippos are particularly hazardous, all waters should be considered as potentially containing crocodiles, and grumpy old buffalo bulls are often seen along the river. Free-range hiking, especially for inexperienced hikers, is therefore not recommended.
Evenings bring the calls of rufous-cheeked nightjars and hippo choruses, creating a unique bushveld soundtrack around the campfire under beautiful African night skies.
Currently, Pitjane Fishing Camp is the main overnight option, offering very basic ablutions, no power, and simple fireplaces, generally occupied by fishermen over the weekends. Camps such as Moretele also exist, but require advance bookings and coordination with management.
There are no shops or ATMs nearby, and the closest is 45 km away in Letlhabile. Visitors must bring everything needed for a self-sufficient bush weekend, including drinking water. It’s advisable to confirm with management beforehand that the ablutions have running water.
The best time to visit is usually the dry season (May–September) for clearer trails, more accessible roads, and fewer mosquitoes, though the reserve remains attractive and productive for game and bird viewing year-round.
The rustic infrastructure, overgrown paths, and occasional scratches from thorny vegetation add to the sense of adventure but should be taken into account. Come prepared, bring curiosity, and immerse yourself in an authentic, self-sufficient bushveld experience that is increasingly rare. Most importantly, enjoy the experience, leave only footprints, and take home only memories.
Booking is via the North West Parks and Tourism Board or directly with the friendly reserve management at 076 837 7740 or 061 719 1155.
Crime: The Elephant We Can’t Ignore
As with any rural area in South Africa, visitors to Borakalalo should take basic precautions. Unfortunately, some risk exists anywhere in the country. That said, it’s important to put crime reports into perspective. After some basic research and speaking with a large pool of people, much of what is reported comes second-hand, often amplified by social media or other online platforms. Without being insensitive to those who have been affected, it is good to remember that often one or two minor incidents can quickly become exaggerated, with additional details added along the way.
It is also worthy to note that many of the security-related incidents occur around the angling area, where alcohol often plays a role. On one night, for example, a visitor passed out on his car horn after drinking heavily. We initially feared he was in danger and walked over to check on him. After much effort, he finally awoke, thoroughly intoxicated.
Incidents like these create ideal opportunities for criminals, but they are usually the result of visitor behavior rather than problems with the reserve itself. Practical measures, such as a security guard at the angling area, could help, but the reserve needs sufficient visitor numbers to justify and cover the expense.
So, is crime an issue at Borakalalo? You could say, to an extent, yes. As it is in most places. However, its reputation is likely somewhat overblown and outdated. Each situation should be assessed on its own merit and confirmed from reliable sources. The challenge remains a catch-22: the reserve needs more visitors to strengthen security and improve facilities, yet a negative perception can deter them.
Awareness, common sense, and responsible behavior are key for a safe and enjoyable visit. From my experience, visits to Borakalalo can be safe, rewarding, and thoroughly enjoyable when sensible precautions are taken. Ultimately, if you have concerns, speak with reserve management to see how they can ensure a safe and welcoming visit. They are making every effort to welcome visitors back.
Friends of Borakalalo Nature Reserve initiative
The Friends of Borakalalo Nature Reserve is dedicated to restoring and revitalizing this unique conservation area.
Their mission is to bring Borakalalo back to its full potential by fostering collaboration between key stakeholders, including local communities, conservation organizations, government bodies, funders, investors, the tourism sector, and the wider public.
They aim to address the pressing challenges facing the reserve, while creating opportunities for both corporate and community involvement.
Through impactful initiatives, engaging events, and shared conservation efforts, they seek to inspire a renewed sense of pride, stewardship, and connection among all who care for nature, and in particular for Borakalalo.
Together, we can ensure Borakalalo thrives. Not only as a protected area, but as a beacon of biodiversity, heritage, education, and community-driven conservation and opportunity. Visit the Friends of Borakalalo Nature Reserve Facebook page here to learn more or get involved.
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